As I tapped "Morneeng" (a special greeting that Fr Elton Fernandes, SJ performs exclusively to JAGs that he picked up from Filipinas somewhere) to confirm our 3 pm meeting last December 27, I was excited to be visiting the Xavier Retreat House in Cheung Chau, Hong Kong. I have heard so much about Xavier House from the Wah Yan alumni in our Jesuit Alumni Group that I had to add it to my itinerary. That it would take around two hours each way did not really matter. This was my Christmas gift to myself. 

Shortly after lunch, I walked past Worldwide House and marvelled at how Filipina nannies had occupied the footsteps. If I had a little bit more time, I am sure that I would have been able to get some sisig (deep fried pigs' head) for Fr. Fernandes. Within minutes, I was walking briskly through the foot bridge that would lead me to the pier.

Our fast ferry soon left for Cheung Chau Island, it was interesting to watch the modern buildings and cityscape disappear in the horizon and to be replaced by mountains and rusty freighters instead; which reminded me of the antiquated, sleepy world of Hong Kong in the late 1970's.

The moment I stepped out of the terminal, I was greeted by a familiar icon, McDonalds, which seemed to be out of place at first glance. But I immediately saw other familiar retail stores like 7/11 and Watsons. It turns out that this sleepy fishing outpost is a favourite place for Hong Kong residents to escape from their frantic lives specially during the summer.

Unlike Central where the constant churning of energy seems to dictate the pace of life, Cheung Chau seemed to march to a slower beat. Still, the landing had many visitors ambling towards the beach that Saturday afternoon.

I watched four young men, trying to put two styrofoam boxes filled with seafood on a small cart and then to balance it with a box full of expensive red wine. They were getting ready for a night of revelry.

Fr. Fernandes soon appeared with a smile on his face. It was great to see him once again for it has been a while since he bade the JAG goodbye a year ago in Vancouver.

I was grateful that he came to fetch me, judging from how we bobbed and wove around the carts and narrow alley ways, I would have taken twice as long. We wended our way through sloping pathways and soon stood at the foot of the steps that would lead us to the Xavier House. 

Climbing the craggy and weather beaten steps, punctuated by verdant shrubs and trees, with each landing connected to an old house, I wondered why people decided to live here, away from the neon lights of Hong Kong. I was reminded of what Lu Xun, one of my favourite writers who wrote, “Hope is like a path in the countryside: originally there was no path, but once people begin to pass, a way appears.” Unlike planned communities Tsing Yi, Cheung Chau appeared to be made up of cloisters of houses with stalls taking up most of the street scene.

Fr. Fernandes on two occasions, invited me to pause to catch my breath. And while I was trying to keep up with him, I was too caught up in the moment to even considering stopping, breathless as I was. In hindsight, the climb was not that bad, I might have had one too many dumplings over lunch at Causeway Bay.

Soon the huge gated door greeted us, much as it has greeted many, made me think of Matthew 11:28: "Come to Me, all who are weary and heavy-laden, and I will give you rest."

Compared to the spacious Rosemarie Heights in Surrey, Xavier House is adequate. But it serves as a much needed place for Hong Kong residents to regain some balance in their lives through quiet prayer, an antidote to their busy and stressful lives. It was interesting to learn that the first thing retreatants do is to spend their first day sleeping.

Standing at the edge of a lookout point in the garden, one could see a beach front with its unspoiled and untrammelled sand. I imagined that the breathtaking view made it easier to hear His subtle voice.

On that particular weekend, Xavier House was full. And while he was trying to complete some scholarly papers from the recent Ignatian conference at the Wah Yan College, Fr. Fernandes graciously made time to chat for a little bit. (The recent conference drew 650 worldwide attendees.)

When it was time to leave, the oddest thing occurred. The ferry I was trying to catch was unexplicably full! It almost felt like being unable to board Canada Line during rush hour! Who would have thought this would take place in a fishing hamlet like Cheung Chau?

With time on our hands, Fr Elton took me around the market square. The many stalls were adorned with faded red papers and some with yellow lanterns. At the end of the road was the entrance to the beach which still had a handful of children frolicking in the waters on a cool December afternoon. Cheung Chau, I learned, had only two vehicles: an ambulance and a police car. And that it was known of its rotating potatoes, which we find in the Richmond Night Market. We even passed my the curry restaurant where he and fellow JAG Ignatius Lee had a meal earlier that year.

I successfully got to queue up for the next ferry. As we bid each other farewell, it was good to know that we would be seeing each other again on February 17 in Vancouver, where the JAGs will fete him with unlimited sisig.

Exhausted from my visit, the gentle rocking of the water lulled me to sleep, but not before I caught a last glimpse of the hawkers and the visitors along the quay which provided an interesting counterpoint to the serene image that was Xavier House. I was just grateful for my prayerful indulgence.

No wonder Louis Kwan calls this favourite place!

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Source for all photos: Dom Bautista.

JAG blogs can sometimes be read in Chinese and French at: jagvancouver.wordpress.com.