I arrived in Santiago de Compostella yesterday, May 21, around 11am, on day 29 of my 750km journey.  I made short work of the final 20km because I wanted to make sure I arrived in plenty of time for the daily Pilgrim's Mass at noon.  In spite if the quickened pace, gone was the sense of physical fatigue that often accompanied the moments of arrival.  First, I was elated to be done and  second the body and spirit were definitely tuned differently than they had been a short month ago.   The sense of elation of the moment was augmented by an atmosphere of solidarity with the many, many familiar faces of fellow pilgrims with whom I had shared the journey.  Some had walked a shorter distance, for a week or less.  Others had begun the walk long before I had and from much farther away than my 750km. 

No matter, the common sentiment was that this was not a group of tourists come to visit a beautiful old city.  Rather, the groups of pilgrims that were gradually filling the Cathedral square were, in a sense, coming home to familiar territory because Santiago had been central to the mind and heart of each of us during the long hours of walking.  Upon arriving, many pilgrims simply sat down on the pavement, shucked their packs and lay down with a deep sigh; a few of them shed tears of disbelief that they had actually made it.   In essence, Santiago, the pilgrim city, was embracing her newest citizens.  A little later it was particularly moving to see pilgrim knapsacks adorning the solemn pillars up and down the nave of the church; reminiscent of the time when pilgrims actually slept in the church.

The community gathered for the Mass was a mix of Christians and non-Christians, believers and non-believers.  It might be surprising to some but to those of us who had walked the Camino and witnessed similar groupings at the pilgrim Masses and blessings along the route, this was the norm; an indication of the power of 'Way' or better, the 'way' God works in deep and subtle ways in those who are seeking beyond their material comforts and needs.  For example, one professed atheist told me after the Mass that he was moved and a bit jealous to see me going to receive communion.  God working subtly? 

After Mass it was heart warming to reunite with Kevin and Erik, the Jesuit novices, both of whom had arrived a day or so prior to me.  They had already connected with the Jesuit community and, after stopping by the Pilgrim Office to receive my Compostella certificate, they showed me the way to St. Augustin's school and church where the Jesuits reside.  

Surprisingly, the Jesuits in Santiago don't receive a lot of Jesuit visitors.  As the result, they were very interested in hearing about our journey.  On the other hand, Jorge, the superior, has done the Camino eight times and he has a very good rapport with some Benedictines who operate a retreat centre for pilgrims in Rabanal, about a week's walk from Santiago.  For his part he would like to see the Jesuits begin some kind of Camino ministry.  I agree that there is much potential, given the richness of conversations and the desire for more deeply meaningful lives on the part of most of the pilgrims I encountered. 

And so, the experience if the Camino will continue to unfold.  Already, walking is different from before.  It's less hurried and I find myself wanting to walk for longer periods.  Prayer is different too because it is so connected to walking, as opposed to sitting still in a chair.  Eating?  Well, I'll need to get back to eating less carbs and other quick energy foods.  Sleeping?  I have to admit that I won't miss the pilgrim dorms, with the snorers and early riders.  

Still, I would do it again tomorrow if given the chance.  Although the next time it might be the Camino del Norte or one of the routes through France.

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This pilgrimage was made in support of AJAN – the African Jesuit AIDS Network – a Catholic organization that links and supports Jesuits working in HIV and AIDS care across sub-Saharan Africa. The AJAN vision of empowered individuals, families and communities working towards an HIV- and AIDS-free society and the fullness of life, is realized by Jesuits and their co-workers who reach out to people with HIV, their families, widows and orphans, and who seek to prevent the spread of the pandemic.  AJAN achieves its mission through facilitation and support, networking, advocacy and resource mobilization.  We are also happy to provide you with a tax receipt for your contributions. Please make checks payable to: Aide aux Jésuites canadiens (“Help the Canadian Jesuits” ). Please also include “2013 Pilgrimage Supporting AJAN” on the check memo line. Checks can be mailed to:

Canadian Jesuit Novitiate Pilgrimage

c / o Kevin Kelly

5611 avenue Gatineau

Montreal, Quebec, Canada

H3T 1X6